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Video Mini Lessons
"Alborada from Capriccio Espagnole" Played Using Traditional Galician/Spanish Pandiereta Style Technique (with Cristiano Pirola)
Masterful Demonstration of Finger Rolls (with Cristiano Pirola)
Concert
Bass Drum Fundamentals (with Kristen Shiner McGuire)
If you need Windows Media Player to view, click link to download Tech-Talk Percussion Primers Triangle The triangle should be the highest, non-pitched member of the percussion family. Sizes range from 4" to 10", however, the best size for concert playing is between 6" and 9". A larger triangle provides a bigger internal working area for easier execution, however, it is heavier and more difficult to control. Triangles are made from steel, brass or bronze, each producing a different sonority. SUSPENSION A triangle needs to be suspended so that it vibrates unencumbered and freely, allowing maximum overtone resonance to be produced. It is very important that the instrument be suspended using a very thin, yet strong, mono-filament line. Fishing line works great and is also inexpensive. The use of string, cable, shoelaces, etc. will effectively dampen the resonance of any triangle. Using a second "catch line" will prevent the triangle from falling to the floor, should the primary line break. A light "triangle clip" will allow the triangle to be mounted on a music stand when not in use. STROKE The triangle should never be played when mounted on a music stand. It should always be held at eye level and struck on the bottom leg with a motion that "pushes away" the bottom leg. This method will produce the maximum overtone sonority. A triangle sound full of overtones will blend with other instruments. Remember, a triangle is a non-pitched instrument and should have a very lush array of overtones, it should not sound like a bell! BEATERS
The tambourine is available in many sizes and jingle configurations. Most importantly, for concert playing, a tambourine with a quality skin head is essential! Headless "rock" tambourines are not a viable substitute. I suggest a general purpose 10" diameter quality tambourine with a double row of bright sounding jingles. Of course it is always beneficial to have a few instruments with a range of sound characteristics available. GRIP Hold the tambourine with a firm, yet flexible grip. Remember, the instrument needs to vibrate when struck. Right handed players should hold the tambourine in the left hand and strike with the right. Maximum clarity and articulation is achieved by holding the tambourine parallel to the floor. Maximum jingle resonance is achieved by holding the tambourine vertically. For general playing, the tambourine should be held at a 45 degree angle. STROKE Three fingers = general playing (pp-mf). F our fingers = strong playing (f).C losed fist = very aggressive playing (ff-ffff).R olls = play by shaking with grip hand or using thumb (friction) roll. EXTRA SOUNDThe tambourine can easily produce unwanted sounds if not handled with care. Be careful not to create unnecessary jingle sound when handling the tambourine during performance! Cymbals Cymbals are instruments of great coloristic expression. While they can add a brilliance of sound unlike any other instrument, they must be played with care and musicality. It is imperative that cymbals be chosen for sound and manageability. For younger students, a pair of 17" medium-light cymbals is recommended. For high school players, addition of medium 19 cymbals is appropriate. For maximum resonance only soft leather straps should be used! The addition of leather pads can also aid in cymbal handling. Wooden handles or soft "furry" pads are not acceptable in the concert hall! GRIP Cymbals should be held in a relaxed, yet controllable manner. The wrists should never be inserted through the strap, rather, the strap should be held between the thumb and pointer finger, with the other fingers supporting the pointer. Imagine turning a key in a car door, ending with the thumb on top. This is exactly the way the cymbal strap is held. STROKE Hold both cymbals together with the top edge at eye level. Slowly separate the cymbals, keeping them closer for soft crashes and farther apart for loud crashes. Using a flam motion bring the cymbals together and instantly pull them apart. Very soft crashes are played by lightly "scraping" the cymbals together. Many student have trouble playing soft crashes and resort to touching the edges at a perpendicular angle. This is not acceptable! MUFFLING
The bass drum is the lowest sounding, non-pitched member of the drum family. It should sound noticeably lower than any other instrument. Think of it as a non-pitched extension of the timpani. Tune the resonating (ringing) head slightly higher than batter (striking) head. Check for loose tension rods and any other "rattles". PLAYING AREA General - half way between edge and center. S taccato - in center.L egato - near edge. STROKEPull sound out of drum! Use wrist AND arm motion with upstroke. Marches use short stokes near center using mainly wrist. Rolls use 2 mallets spread apart rolling slowly using wrist only! MUFFLING Use the right knee and left hand. For very short strokes leave knee on head while striking. (Lefties use left knee/right hand). Do not dampen the concert bass drum with tape on the head, or any muffling item placed inside the shell. Remember, the concert bass drum should sound very low and resonant! INSTRUMENT SIZE Bass drums are available in many different sizes. It is important to choose a drum that is proportionally suitable for the player. For younger students, a 28" diameter drum is suitable. For older players, a 32"-36" diameter drum works best.
What is the "good sound?" When lecturing on the highly underrated idiophone known as the triangle, I start with a survey of opinions regarding preferences of sound production on the instrument. First I produce a sound that is very pure in nature a few tones sounding at the same time. Then I play a sound that is thick and rich with many dissonant tones. Invariably, most listeners in the audience prefer the pure sound. This is understandable. In an isolated environment, why would someone prefer a dissonance to a consonance? The audience always reacts with bewilderment when I reveal that it is the second one, the one that is flush with harmonics, that is the accepted norm among professional players. It is preferred in part because the instrument is usually used in an ensemble context. As part of an ensemble, the humble triangle becomes integrally involved in an aspect of acoustics known as "summation of amplitudes." This means that the volume of pitches that are in phase (in tune) with other sounding frequencies add their volume on top of the others while the volume of the notes that are "out of tune" remains soft. If a triangle sound has few pitches, it has less chance of being "in tune" with the prevailing harmonic structure. A triangle sound more abundant in pitches will always cut through and sound as if it is in tune with the prevailing harmony. Imagine an instrument that automatically plays in tune! A triangle played with the "good sound" accompanying a series of harmonic changes sounds as if it is changing pitches with the chords. How to produce the "good sound." For this issue, we are discussing two modes of vibration. The first, the one that produced the purer tone can be thought of as existing in a two dimensional plane. The legs of the triangle that form the open end vibrate back and forth, while the opposite side bows in the middle with the two closed corners being nodal points of no vibration . One creates this mode of vibration by striking the triangle at 90 degrees to its plane, on any of its sides. The second sound breaks out of the two dimensional mold into the third dimension. Here the open legs and closed side not only vibrate back and forth as in the first mode but also vibrate laterally, side to side. Scientifically, this is called "torque" or twisting. To make the triangle enter this twisting mode, we simply strike it at a 45 degree angle (or less) to its plane. This causes the instrument to torque and produce the lush desirable sound. Now that you know how to produce the different sounds try a little experiment. Have a friend play a series of chord progressions on the piano while you play the triangle (the good sound) in the same rhythm. Listen to the triangle seemingly change its pitches to match the chords! The technique of striking the triangle at an acute angle to its plane extends to roll technique. Instead of rolling with the beater perpendicular to the corner of the triangle, try moving the wrist down and away from the corner while you are rolling. Listen to the dramatic increase in fullness of sound. The beater is striking the triangle at an acute angle to its plane. Whenever possible the triangle holder should be hand held. This is because energy (sound) is lost when the instrument is hung or clipped to a music stand. Again, a little experiment will show what I am describing. In a quiet environment, clip or hang your triangle to a stand and play it with a heavy beater. Touch the stand and feel the vibrations that should be emanating from the instrument passing through the stand. Now play it hand held. Can you hear the difference? The reason the energy doesn't dissipate through the hand as it did through the stand is that the fleshy fingers are poor conductors and allow most of the energy to be released in the form of audible sound waves caused by the vibrating triangle. Although all triangles obey the same laws of physics, they are not created equal! The particular design and material of each model has a dramatic effect on the final result. The Grover Super-Overtone (tm) triangle has been designed expressly for a sound rich in partials. It maintains this positive characteristic throughout the dynamic spectrum. Sensitive pianissimos through sparkling fortissimos make this instrument the ideal triangle. Use of proper technique and a superb triangle, like the Grover Super-Overtone (tm) triangle will place the "good sound" in your hands.
Creative Tambourine Technique It is surprising to me that so few percussion students take the practice of percussion accessories seriously. I can honestly say that in over fifteen years as a professional I have been required to play tambourine and triangle more often than marimba. Yet most students fail to devote any time to the preparation of accessory playing. Why not spend some time mastering these instruments as well as snare drum, marimba, and timpani? Don't fool yourself into thinking that once given a demanding tambourine part you can just pick up the nearest tambourine and instantly do a credible job. It has been my experience to see more than a few players fumble over standard tambourine parts. The purpose of this article is to outline some of the unusual techniques I have acquired, developed, and refined over a number of years. I'm writing with the assumption that most percussionists know how to execute a smooth thumb roll. If not, go back to the practice room and master this technique, or if need be find a good teacher and take a lesson or two. You'll be glad you did. Holding the Tambourine -- Angle of
Attack Rule #1: A tambourine sounds most articulate when held in a horizontal orientation. When holding your tambourine, don't mindlessly hold it at the same angle of attack for every situation! To demonstrate proper use of this concept, let's take the opening of Bizet's Carmen Suite (ex. #1). Start this excerpt holding the instrument almost fully perpendicular to the floor. This will start you off with a big, full sound and since it is at FF dynamic level articulation is no problem. Use a closed fist in the center of the head. In the 9th bar (where indicated) shift to using your fingertips and as you diminuendo move from the center of the head to the edge. At the same time gradually change your angle of attack to a more horizontal position. This should result in a nice articulate sonority all the way down to the softest dynamic level. Cradling Thumb Roll With Heel Release Finger Roll Right Handed Shake Roll Right Handed Pivot
Articulation Execution of Grace Notes Fist / Knee Articulation Two Hand Articulation While it is difficult to explain musical concepts and
techniques via the written word I hope this attempt has not been in vain. By no means are
these ideas proposed as unique solutions, they are merely concepts that work for me. I
encourage you to absorb this information, process it and utilize that which works for you.
Many of you will go on to discover alternate techniques which extend beyond the scope of
this article, and I look forward to learning from you. Changing a Tambourine Head 2) While head is soaking, use medium grade sandpaper to sand the top edge (bearing edge) of the tambourine shell until all the old glue is removed. 3) Remove head from water and wipe off excess water. 4) Apply a liberal amount of Elmers (or carpenters) glue to sanded edge. Use a finger to spread the glue evenly around the rim. 5) Place the wet head on top of the glue coated edge, centering the head so about one inch extends past the edge of the shell. 6) Stretch a large rubber band (included in Grovers head replacement kit) over the head and rim, attaching the head to the shell. 7) Pull out the slack in the head by pulling the edge of the skin (under the elastic) until tight (use pliers if necessary). 8) Leave the tambourine in a humid place to slowly dry. Do not leave in a very dry place or in direct sunlight. If necessary, cover the head with a damp towel. 9) When dry, remove the rubber band and trim the excess skin with an exacto knife or single edged razor blade. There should be a half inch of skin around the outer edge of the shell. (Be Careful!) 10) Add tacks if so desired (optional). |